Bow reached on Sat. Sept. 26, trail map updated - next stop Port Towsand.
1,063 Miles hiked out of 1,290 total - 82% done!!!
[Posted by Alan Frazier]
September 27, 2009
September 25, 2009
Interesting Insects #2
Bees, Wasps, Bee-Mimics
Here you find the second in a series of Interesting Insect encounters on the PNT. Throughout this trip we've frequently encountered bees, wasps and bee mimics. Here are some images of these distinctive critters.
Bees are typically non-malicious, colorful, industrious things. They look especially pretty against a flowery backdrop.
Wasps seem so much more, well, evil than bees. There's a perception of bees working together in social units, collecting nectar to make sweet, sweet honey, all the while pollinating beautiful flowers. Wasps are leaner, meaner, and frankly, more vicious. Sure, they play an invaluable role in the ecosystem – managing pest insects for one – but as predators and parasites, not pollinators. We watched this group of wasps swirling and hovering over something deep in the grasses.
Upon closer (but not too close) inspection we realized they were voraciously fighting over the remains of a moth. No friendly working community here. You can see in this slightly blurry image that the wasp in the upper left has absconded with what appears to be the moth's head. The other two insects are ripping apart what remains of their dinner. Violent, yes. Also very very neat to see their competitive interactions.
And then there are the totally different, completely cool bee mimics. I know virtually nothing about these insects, but we really enjoyed watching them throughout the summer. They are small, curious, non-malicious. These flies employ mimicry to avoid predation, and at first their bee-like coloration can be a bit alarming. Once you realize their hovering, helicopter-like flight patterns are non-threatening they become quite charming. It took us weeks and weeks to finally get a picture of one – they are fast little critters on the wing.
Stay tuned for the next installment of our interesting insect encounters along the PNT!
Here you find the second in a series of Interesting Insect encounters on the PNT. Throughout this trip we've frequently encountered bees, wasps and bee mimics. Here are some images of these distinctive critters.
Bees are typically non-malicious, colorful, industrious things. They look especially pretty against a flowery backdrop.
Wasps seem so much more, well, evil than bees. There's a perception of bees working together in social units, collecting nectar to make sweet, sweet honey, all the while pollinating beautiful flowers. Wasps are leaner, meaner, and frankly, more vicious. Sure, they play an invaluable role in the ecosystem – managing pest insects for one – but as predators and parasites, not pollinators. We watched this group of wasps swirling and hovering over something deep in the grasses.
Upon closer (but not too close) inspection we realized they were voraciously fighting over the remains of a moth. No friendly working community here. You can see in this slightly blurry image that the wasp in the upper left has absconded with what appears to be the moth's head. The other two insects are ripping apart what remains of their dinner. Violent, yes. Also very very neat to see their competitive interactions.
And then there are the totally different, completely cool bee mimics. I know virtually nothing about these insects, but we really enjoyed watching them throughout the summer. They are small, curious, non-malicious. These flies employ mimicry to avoid predation, and at first their bee-like coloration can be a bit alarming. Once you realize their hovering, helicopter-like flight patterns are non-threatening they become quite charming. It took us weeks and weeks to finally get a picture of one – they are fast little critters on the wing.Stay tuned for the next installment of our interesting insect encounters along the PNT!
Two Month Anniversary
Our PNT journey began on July 13th in Glacier National Park. We hiked seven miles in the rain, to a designated campsite at Bowman Lake. Despite a rolling trail, in seven miles we experienced no net change in elevation. Our packs were heavy and wet, and my legs and back and neck ached after the short day on the trail. After a hasty meal in the chilly weather we dove into our sleeping bags before dark. I worried wild animals might visit our campsite in the night. In the morning we shared the communal cooking area with eight other hikers as we shivered in the damp morning air. Soon we packed up our gear and set off on the long climb to Brown Pass and our next designated campsite.
What a difference two months can make.
On September 13th, two states and over 700 miles later, we found ourselves in the Pasayten Wilderness of Washington State. On our two-month anniversary on the trail we hiked fifteen miles under gorgeous sunny skies. In that distance we climbed over 3000 feet in elevation to stunning Cathedral Pass. We dropped a short way down into a campsite of our choosing above upper Cathedral Lake in time to make a delicious meal before watching the dazzling sunset over distant Mount Baker. Later, snuggled in our sleeping bags, we lay out on wide, flat rocks and watched stars pop into view until they filled the dome of the night sky. Shooting stars cascaded overhead. Despite the elevation and the lateness of the season a warm breeze wafted across the exposed rocks and over our cheeks. My feet still ached, now the familiar throb of being freed from a long day of pounding the trail in hiking boots. I wondered, hopefully, if we'd awaken with any animal visitors nearby. Indeed, the next day we watched a group of six mountain goats, including a nanny and her kid grazing up the slope. Our only other company was a couple of climbers who spent the afternoon ascending one of the many rock spurs above the lake. The stunning views, the exposed openness of the alpine terrain, and the freedom from set schedules encouraged us to stay an extra day – a gentle start to month number three.
Looking west from Cathedral Pass, Pasayten Wilderness, Washington. (Our white tent is barely visible on the left side in front of the dark treeline).
Six mountain goats, including a nanny and her kid (seen in the lower left), visited us at Cathedral Pass.
What a difference two months can make.
On September 13th, two states and over 700 miles later, we found ourselves in the Pasayten Wilderness of Washington State. On our two-month anniversary on the trail we hiked fifteen miles under gorgeous sunny skies. In that distance we climbed over 3000 feet in elevation to stunning Cathedral Pass. We dropped a short way down into a campsite of our choosing above upper Cathedral Lake in time to make a delicious meal before watching the dazzling sunset over distant Mount Baker. Later, snuggled in our sleeping bags, we lay out on wide, flat rocks and watched stars pop into view until they filled the dome of the night sky. Shooting stars cascaded overhead. Despite the elevation and the lateness of the season a warm breeze wafted across the exposed rocks and over our cheeks. My feet still ached, now the familiar throb of being freed from a long day of pounding the trail in hiking boots. I wondered, hopefully, if we'd awaken with any animal visitors nearby. Indeed, the next day we watched a group of six mountain goats, including a nanny and her kid grazing up the slope. Our only other company was a couple of climbers who spent the afternoon ascending one of the many rock spurs above the lake. The stunning views, the exposed openness of the alpine terrain, and the freedom from set schedules encouraged us to stay an extra day – a gentle start to month number three.
Looking west from Cathedral Pass, Pasayten Wilderness, Washington. (Our white tent is barely visible on the left side in front of the dark treeline).
Six mountain goats, including a nanny and her kid (seen in the lower left), visited us at Cathedral Pass.September 22, 2009
Experiencing Wilderness
Beware your expectations. Having just emerged from the Pasayten Wilderness Area in North Central Washington State – the most remote section of the entire PNT - we were reminded that expectations can be dangerous.
The Pasayten lies miles beyond exurbia, is buffered by National Forests, and home to the most diverse collection of charismatic mega-fauna we'll encounter - from mountain lions and goats, to elk and moose, ptarmigan, harriers, marmots, and more. We expected long days, scenic vistas, and complete separation from the outside world. What we got was miles and miles of quality trails, 360-degree panoramas, jagged snow-capped peaks, pristine alpine lakes, and the true awareness that if anything were to happen help was days, not hours, away.
What we lacked was solitude. We saw and interacted with more people in two weeks of the Pasayten than in the previous two months combined.
What did we learn? When too many people search for solitude in breathtaking, remote landscapes, often no one achieves their goal.
View from atop Devil's Dome, Pasayten Wilderness
The Pasayten lies miles beyond exurbia, is buffered by National Forests, and home to the most diverse collection of charismatic mega-fauna we'll encounter - from mountain lions and goats, to elk and moose, ptarmigan, harriers, marmots, and more. We expected long days, scenic vistas, and complete separation from the outside world. What we got was miles and miles of quality trails, 360-degree panoramas, jagged snow-capped peaks, pristine alpine lakes, and the true awareness that if anything were to happen help was days, not hours, away.
What we lacked was solitude. We saw and interacted with more people in two weeks of the Pasayten than in the previous two months combined.
What did we learn? When too many people search for solitude in breathtaking, remote landscapes, often no one achieves their goal.
View from atop Devil's Dome, Pasayten WildernessSeptember 21, 2009
NEWS - Concrete reached 9/20/2009
They reached Concrete yesterday, progress trail map is updated.
They were unable to hike from Ross Lake Resort due to passes closed from rockslide and forest fires on both sides of trail. They were able to get a ride from Ross Lake Resort to Concrete. They should have new blogs posted soon.
[posted by Alan and Rachelle Frazier]
They were unable to hike from Ross Lake Resort due to passes closed from rockslide and forest fires on both sides of trail. They were able to get a ride from Ross Lake Resort to Concrete. They should have new blogs posted soon.
[posted by Alan and Rachelle Frazier]
September 18, 2009
What is This? #6
An occasional series where we share for your amusement unique, curious, and/or fascinating things that we have encountered!
Okay, so this installment is more about engaging your creative imagination than asking a serious “What is this?” question. You know how it's fun to look at clouds and find images and shapes in them? Well, when you've been on the trail as long as we have, you find yourself imagining images out of all sorts of things. Callae thought she saw something very specific in this compilation of rock, soil and plants. What do you see?
This image was taken on 24 August 2009 in the Colville National Forest during a much-needed break along the side of the forest service road we'd been hiking for miles and miles and miles.
Callae's description of this image will be included in the next What is This post.
We encourage you to submit your thoughts using the Comments link below.
Answer to What is This #5 – (ColvilleNatForest) original post date: 09-14-2009
Okay, so this installment is more about engaging your creative imagination than asking a serious “What is this?” question. You know how it's fun to look at clouds and find images and shapes in them? Well, when you've been on the trail as long as we have, you find yourself imagining images out of all sorts of things. Callae thought she saw something very specific in this compilation of rock, soil and plants. What do you see?
This image was taken on 24 August 2009 in the Colville National Forest during a much-needed break along the side of the forest service road we'd been hiking for miles and miles and miles.
Callae's description of this image will be included in the next What is This post.
We encourage you to submit your thoughts using the Comments link below.
Answer to What is This #5 – (ColvilleNatForest) original post date: 09-14-2009
We believe these fence-like structures must be cattle guards, set in place to discourage cows from completely tromping through these areas. Perhaps the hillside along the roadway is being revegetated. The other guard was placed over a stream to help prevent total destruction of that waterway. Given the numerous contaminated water sources we passed, we're not sure why these particular areas were under protection. An experiment, perhaps?
September 16, 2009
Interesting Insects #1
Beautiful Butterflies
When you first embark on a long hike your senses are attuned to big-picture images and thoughts. The scenery. The weather. The aches and pains. The giant mountain ahead of you. Survival. Perhaps there are big exciting animals to distract you. Often there are not. As time passes and the initial awe of the hike wanes you start to notice smaller aspects of the experience. One of the things we have become more attuned to as this journey progresses is the insects among us. So here you find the first in a series of Interesting Insect encounters on the PNT.
Butterflies are bright, beautiful and impossible to ignore when they flit across your path or take a moment to land on you or your pack to suck away the salt accumulating there. Earlier in the season we had several close encounters with a variety of lovely amber butterflies. Here they are!
When you first embark on a long hike your senses are attuned to big-picture images and thoughts. The scenery. The weather. The aches and pains. The giant mountain ahead of you. Survival. Perhaps there are big exciting animals to distract you. Often there are not. As time passes and the initial awe of the hike wanes you start to notice smaller aspects of the experience. One of the things we have become more attuned to as this journey progresses is the insects among us. So here you find the first in a series of Interesting Insect encounters on the PNT.
Butterflies are bright, beautiful and impossible to ignore when they flit across your path or take a moment to land on you or your pack to suck away the salt accumulating there. Earlier in the season we had several close encounters with a variety of lovely amber butterflies. Here they are!
This Hydaspe Fritillary kept us company in Glacier National Park along a stream near the south end of Waterton Lake. It was a much nicer companion than the mosquitoes who had been nibbling on my hands, or the flies you can see perched on my thumb.
One of my favorite things about butterflies is how different they appear when their wings are closed. Fritillaries like this one have giant silvery spots that really stand out against its dark hind-wings.
This small Northern Checkerspot sucked salt from my finger while overlooking Red Meadow Lake in Western Montana.
You can see how the Checkerspots got their name when you see the striking contrast on the underside of the hind wings.
This Satyr Comma butter is ideally suited for its life in the trees as it is camouflaged against gray bark. The white comma on its hind wing helps give away its name.
And then the comma opens its drab wings and voila, a stunning shock of amber and gold to dazzle the senses. Plus, I just love the abstract, uneven lines of this butterfly's outline.
Stay tuned for the next installment of our interesting insect encounters along the PNT!
September 14, 2009
Trail sketches
As you know, every ten days or so Dale and I arrive in a small town somewhere along the PNT. Along with the promise of a hot meal we don't have to cook in a tiny pot, arriving in town means picking up a food box at the post office. It's become one of the highlights of our town visits. My parents have been diligently sending us our boxes for weeks now and we've come to eagerly anticipate what new, sweet treasure they've included above and beyond the food we packed months ago. Sometimes it's a special candy bar, or a sweet note, or just-in-case throat lozenges. And each box includes an artistic rendering of our journey as documented through my father's pen and ink sketches. We wanted to share with you some of his drawings, as they've been a big hit with us and some of the others who have been around when we open our food boxes.
What is This? #5
An occasional series where we share for your amusement unique, curious, and/or fascinating things that we have encountered!
We came across these mysterious man-made structures along a Forest Service road in the Colville National Forest outside of Northport, WA. These images were taken on 24 August 2009.
We came across these mysterious man-made structures along a Forest Service road in the Colville National Forest outside of Northport, WA. These images were taken on 24 August 2009.
These logs are connected together and stretch approximately 15 feet up the slope and perhaps 75 feet down the road.
Here is another example, found slightly off the road along a side trail.
The answer will be included in the next What is This post.
We encourage you to submit your thoughts using the Comments link below.
Answer to What is This #4 – (SwanLake) Posted 9-2-2009:
This freaky little critter is a predatory Ant Lion! You've likely seen their dimpled burrows in sandy soil. When ants fall into the ant lion's funnel-like burrow they cannot clamber out and quickly fall prey to the larger insect's massive pincers. I've seen ant lion burrows for years, but never thought to feed them (they move fast when you drop an ant into their trap!) or dig one up until we met the Pfaff family at Swan Lake. Thanks to Danny, Robbie, Katy and Amy for teaching us about these cool insects!
Bear-ish Encounters
While I began this journey haunted by dreams of bears, actual sightings of the charismatic animals have been practically non-existent since our first encounter in Montana. Sightings of other bear-like things however have been plentiful. So in lieu of actual bears, here are a few images of bear-named or bear-related things. Oh, and consequentially, my bear dreams have been replaced by dreams populated by humans. When in town, dream of animals. When in the wild, dream of people. Interesting juxtaposition. As are some of the following images.
Beargrass
By late August the beargrass plants had gone to seed (seen here on a slope in Idaho's Selkirk mountains). Bears use their giant paws to dig up the plant's roots for nourishment.Bearblood
Early in our hike we noticed this unusual red spattering across the leaves of many mountain maples. We're told its common name is bear blood, though we are not sure if its actually a rust or a fungus. Nor do we know why its called “bear” blood, and not “deer” or “elk” blood. It does stand out among the otherwise green forest understory, and provides a rather lovely contrast.
Bearberry
This is one of my favorite plants. I know it as kinnikinnick, but it is also commonly referred to as bearberry. Even its scientific name, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi refers to its connection with bears. In the spring this low-growing ground cover has rather diminutive, but lovely bell-shaped flowers. It truly comes to life in the fall when its bright red berries herald the coming winter. Bears gorge on these fruits and their scat is littered with its hard seeds. (I can't recall if the berries are edible for humans, though my recollection of trying them is a memory of puckering my cheeks against their tartness.)Bear Scat
We have certainly seen a lot of bear scat along our journey, even if the animals themselves are scarce. We were told the huckleberry crop in Montana and Idaho was especially good this year, which may explain the lack of bears in our general vicinity. Or maybe it was just the smell of our shoes that kept them away. This scat has bearberry seeds in it.Bear Hang
When there are bears around, or the potential of bears around, it's a good idea to hang your food high out of a paw's reach.Bear Butt
Six weeks after our first bear sighting in Montana we finally got a glimpse of a small black bear crossing a forest service road in the Colville National Forest, Washington. A very exciting, if brief rear-end encounter!Bare Butt
Okay, I couldn't resist this play on words. There is nothing quite like setting your bare butt on a throne toilet with a view like this one...bears or no.
September 08, 2009
NEWS UPDATE - Loomis Reached.
They called on pay phone, arrived today (9/8) in Loomis WA, next stop Ross Lake Resort. They have hiked 673 miles out of 1293, 52% completed.
No email access in Loomis so their blogs will be snail-mailed to us and we will post them after we get them in the mail and vet them.
The next 140 mile stint to Ross Lake Resort is 10-14 days hike thru rugged wilderness with no roads, towns or much of anything else except mountains and wildlife.
Above is a rough idea of the trail they will be taking, click on the image for larger view.
Posted by Alan and Rachelle Frazier]
September 03, 2009
NEWS UPDATE - Wauconda reached 9/3
Check updated Trail Map for progress.
Next mail drop pickup Loomis around 9/10.
They are planning to break for a couple
of days in Oroville on the way.
Blogs received from them and will be posted in the next few days, including a new 'What Is This"!!
[Posted by Alan/Rachelle Frazier]
Next mail drop pickup Loomis around 9/10.
They are planning to break for a couple
of days in Oroville on the way.
Blogs received from them and will be posted in the next few days, including a new 'What Is This"!!
[Posted by Alan/Rachelle Frazier]
September 02, 2009
What is This #4?
An occasional series where we share for your amusement unique, curious, and/or fascinating things that we have encountered!
The following picture was taken on 02 September 2009 at Swan Lake in North-Central Washington State.
This frightening little creature is only about one centimeter long, has enormous pincers and looks like something out of a B-Grade science fiction movie. If we tell you where we found it, we're afraid that will give it away.
The answer will be included in the next What is This post.
We encourage you to submit your thoughts using the Comments link below.
Answer to What is This #3 (posted 08-23-2009):
We found this rather large, dog-like scat (coyote, or maybe wolf?) in the middle of the trail and picked out these unusual items from it. #3, the whitish item is a tooth – likely a molar of a cervid (elk, deer, moose), though we don't know for sure what kind. The bluish fingernail shaped things we can only guess at. They might be dew-claws from the same animal as the tooth. (Dew-claws are those extra toes high on the back of an animal's leg – your dogs have them, though they may have been removed as puppies). They might be the tips of hoofs from a young deer fawn or elk calf.
The following picture was taken on 02 September 2009 at Swan Lake in North-Central Washington State.
This frightening little creature is only about one centimeter long, has enormous pincers and looks like something out of a B-Grade science fiction movie. If we tell you where we found it, we're afraid that will give it away.The answer will be included in the next What is This post.
We encourage you to submit your thoughts using the Comments link below.
Answer to What is This #3 (posted 08-23-2009):
We found this rather large, dog-like scat (coyote, or maybe wolf?) in the middle of the trail and picked out these unusual items from it. #3, the whitish item is a tooth – likely a molar of a cervid (elk, deer, moose), though we don't know for sure what kind. The bluish fingernail shaped things we can only guess at. They might be dew-claws from the same animal as the tooth. (Dew-claws are those extra toes high on the back of an animal's leg – your dogs have them, though they may have been removed as puppies). They might be the tips of hoofs from a young deer fawn or elk calf.
Things that bug us...
After living in the field for a while you realize that certain things really bug you. They may only happen occasionally, but when they do you are instantly annoyed. Here are just a few of those things that we thought you might find amusing:
Mosquitoes. Now it's not what you think – mosquitoes are a regular part of summer camping. You get used to them, some places are worse than others, and you use a good repellent when necessary. But in the backcountry they rarely see humans and tend to be less wary than they should be. So you can often swat them before they have a chance to get their blood meal. Additionally, you can frequently snatch them right out of the air before they even have a chance to land. You squeeze you hand into a tight fist so that the little bloodsucker will be crushed between your powerful fingers demonstrating how superior you are to the miniscule insect you have chosen to obliterate. Except that when you open your hand to assess the carnage, the mosquito, having found some tiny refuge among your digits, simply flies away – unscathed. Now that is annoying.
Places that are “Lost”. Lakes, rivers, creeks, mountains, etc. By definition, if something is “lost”, you don't know where it is. So how can it appear on a map? If you needed to find “Lost Lake” you could simply look on a map (between Buster and Strawberry Mountains in the Okanogan National Forest of eastern Washington State), and if that is the case, is it really lost? (You could actually just follow the trail up from Strawberry Mountain, you can't miss it.) It makes me wonder if there is a map out there for my keys... maybe the problem isn't that I lose my keys, but that I lost the map to them...
In general, breezes are nice. And on a hot summer day, cool breezes are almost universally welcomed. But there are times when you'd prefer to forgo them. Like when you are sitting on a US Forest Service vault toilet. Now, I'm not talking about the old pit toilets that you'd do anything to avoid - most of the modern ones are fairly clean, have toilet paper, and don't smell too bad (not to mention you don't have to dig your own hole). But you can imagine what must be down in that vault. So when you are sitting there, enjoying the fact that you don't have to squat over a small hole in the ground, and a cool breath of air rushes past your backside on its way toward your nostrils... an open air cathole in the woods starts to sound pretty nice.
Mosquitoes. Now it's not what you think – mosquitoes are a regular part of summer camping. You get used to them, some places are worse than others, and you use a good repellent when necessary. But in the backcountry they rarely see humans and tend to be less wary than they should be. So you can often swat them before they have a chance to get their blood meal. Additionally, you can frequently snatch them right out of the air before they even have a chance to land. You squeeze you hand into a tight fist so that the little bloodsucker will be crushed between your powerful fingers demonstrating how superior you are to the miniscule insect you have chosen to obliterate. Except that when you open your hand to assess the carnage, the mosquito, having found some tiny refuge among your digits, simply flies away – unscathed. Now that is annoying.
Places that are “Lost”. Lakes, rivers, creeks, mountains, etc. By definition, if something is “lost”, you don't know where it is. So how can it appear on a map? If you needed to find “Lost Lake” you could simply look on a map (between Buster and Strawberry Mountains in the Okanogan National Forest of eastern Washington State), and if that is the case, is it really lost? (You could actually just follow the trail up from Strawberry Mountain, you can't miss it.) It makes me wonder if there is a map out there for my keys... maybe the problem isn't that I lose my keys, but that I lost the map to them...
In general, breezes are nice. And on a hot summer day, cool breezes are almost universally welcomed. But there are times when you'd prefer to forgo them. Like when you are sitting on a US Forest Service vault toilet. Now, I'm not talking about the old pit toilets that you'd do anything to avoid - most of the modern ones are fairly clean, have toilet paper, and don't smell too bad (not to mention you don't have to dig your own hole). But you can imagine what must be down in that vault. So when you are sitting there, enjoying the fact that you don't have to squat over a small hole in the ground, and a cool breath of air rushes past your backside on its way toward your nostrils... an open air cathole in the woods starts to sound pretty nice.
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