Crossing the Kootenai

The Kootenai river flows south from Canada and spreads into Montana's Lake Koocanusa before spilling under the Libby Dam, once more a river. Its path then winds west through northern Montana before looping a sinuous path through the panhandle of Idaho where it crosses back into Canada just feet away from the border crossing at Porthill.

Over the course of our journey, we crossed the Kootenai twice. The first time we met its waters outside Rexford, MT. There on a hot, late July morning we walked a paved road along steep shale and limestone cliffs in order to reach the nearly ½ mile long, Koocanusa bridge. Cars zoomed by and osprey soared overhead bringing food to their nearly-fledged young.

Osprey above nest overlooking Lake Koocanusa.

The Koocanusa bridge is not only the tallest, longest bridge in Montana, it also holds the honor of being named 1972's most beautiful long span bridge. It certainly felt like a long crossing over the steely expanse, especially as the metal around us popped and creaked under the rising heat of day. And the grilled walkway underfoot made us a bit dizzy as we looked down into the blue waters passing by 100 feet below.

Looking south to the longest bridge in Montana.

Beginning the long walk to the west side.

Early morning looking east along the Koocanusa bridge.

Two weeks, some 130 miles and another state later we once again met the Kootenai river. Again, we approached it by foot on pavement as we trudged down Hwy 95 toward the promise that was Porthill. This time the Kootenai's waters wove through the bottomland of the river valley, brilliant blue in contrast to the bordering golden agricultural fields. The hills surrounding its waters were thick with cedar, hemlock and white pine. We contoured the river's curves as we walked north on Idaho 1 toward Porthill.

During our time with the river at Porthill we admired the herons that stood in the shadows of its banks and the eagles that searched for fish in its depths. On a hot, end-of-summer-day we helped launch a Huck Finn-like raft into the Kootenai's gentle current and later dove into the river's chilly, refreshing embrace. And on the day of our departure from Porthill, we enlisted the help of a young, willing local Porthillian to help ferry us and our heavy packs to the opposite banks.

Enjoying the river on a hot August day.

As we've suggested in an earlier post, the only way to cross the Kootenai by foot is at Copeland, 12 miles south of Porthill. The canyon we planned to hike up lay only a few miles south of Porthill – on the opposite side of the river. Thanks to Brandon we began the next leg of our journey on the opposite bank of the Kootenai, and avoided the long round-about trip via Copeland.

A few words about Brandon. He is a slight, handsome young man, willing to step in and help out complete strangers at the drop of a hat. When Dale told him of our plight, and asked for his help, Brandon smiled broadly and said, “Sure, I can do that.”

So on a suddenly cool, suspiciously dark and cloudy morning we borrowed the Tompke's inflatable rowboat and Brandon stepped in to take us one at a time (with our packs) across the expanse of the river. He maneuvered the boat like a pro. A shore-side observer would never have known it was Brandon's first time in a rowboat. Very impressive. We're very grateful for the ride, and the 20-ish miles he saved us in backtracking. Thank you Brandon!

Brandon rowing Callae across the river.

With our boat captain.

We waved farewell to Porthill, the border crossing and Brandon and walked the banks of the Kootenai until we met our trailhead at Long Canyon Creek. A bald eagle surveyed us from the opposite bank while Canada geese winged by overhead. Our final view of the Kootenai's quiet waters came from near the top of the ridgeline above the creek when we looked back through a break in the thick forest of cedar. Sunlight shone down through storm clouds to illuminate golden fields and blue sparkle of water. (Sorry, no image on account of the rain). We wouldn't see a body of water as extensive until Priest Lake – 27 miles distant. We also wouldn't see the sun for two and a half days, deep in the valley of Long Canyon and a three day rain that swept the area. But more on that another time.

Porthill border crossing

A bald eagle - one of the many birds seen along the Kootenai river.

Canada geese flying along the Kootenai river valley.