Shakedown Hike #2

From 28-30 June 2009, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, North-Central Cascades, WA (We're going back a ways here and inserting a post from before the PNT hike began.)

We are wiped out, in a good, “We've worked hard,” way. It's the second night of our second shakedown hike and I am writing in the fading light of dusk. Mosquitoes are nibbling on my hands. The clicking of the computer keys is backed by rushing water. Hermit thrushes serenade us through the tall, tall trees.



Dale and I have migrated to Washington state to spend some time with his family before we walk onto the trail in Glacier National Park (14 days away!). We definitely wanted another shakedown hike while in the Northwest as a final gear check and prep. Plus, it's another step toward physical and mental preparation for the PNT. In order to make that happen, we've hiked into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area in the North Cascades.

I think we'd both agree this shakedown hike has been both a physical and a mental challenge. While the hike into Colorado's Lost Creek Wilderness (see Shakedown Hike #1 ) was fairly flat and unassuming, we both struggled because of the altitude. Here in the lower-elevation Cascades, we're finding it easier to breathe but the terrain is much more challenging. We intentionally chose a location that would better represent some of the more difficult days on the PNT. The trails here are steep and require as much mental awareness as physical ability. There's a lot of stepping up through tree roots, on and over rocks, or cut-away steps on ground that more often than not is spongy or actively flowing with water. Yesterday we hiked in to (or rather, up to) Dorothy Lake.


We climbed 1000 feet up in about 2.25 miles to get to the alpine lake at 3,600 feet above sea level. (To provide some perspective, alpine lakes in Colorado are found above 10,000 feet.) In places the trail had been nearly wiped away by winter avalanche or mudslides and we had to carefully wind around jagged broken trees and upended rocks. We forded a wide, fast-moving stream where the bridge at the south end of Lake Dorothy had been washed away. Today we gasped our way up an additional 600 feet in about a mile of intense switchbacks in order to get over to the smaller, connected Bear and Deer lakes. Dale says it was equivalent of walking the steps to the top of the Space Needle....with 40+ pounds on our backs. No wonder we're wiped out.

I am glad we've hiked both days with packs on. This is giving us a better sense of what it will feel like to get up each morning and break-down camp, re-load the packs and hike again. For the PNT we thought we might prepare a hearty hot meal in the morning. Now we are starting to think we'll be snacking on high-protein/carb foods (bars, trail mix) as we pack up so we can break camp early, hit the trail and get to the next campsite in time for a substantial afternoon meal instead. We'd both rather get to the next night's camp before dark, and with enough time in the afternoon to explore, write, and make a couple hot meals in daylight.

This morning we snacked on Clif bars while breaking down camp. A group of mergansers landed on the glassy waters and swam around peacefully until they discovered us. They broke the calm, glassy water with their hasty flight.


Our tent was damp from condensation, our shoes still damp from the previous day's stream crossing. My shoulders ached under the weight of the pack, but once I got going it became manageable. Once my muscles warmed to the idea of being used again, they carried me up the mountain slowly, but successfully.

Despite the ache in my thighs and rear, it is beautiful here. The water here turns blue-green in direct sunlight thanks to the particulate matter from glacial till. There are numerous inlets and outlets and always the sound of rushing water. We've not seen any charismatic wildlife, save a dozen or so people, but have seen a few mysterious weasel-like scats along the trail and two field mice hopping through our camp at Lake Dorothy. Birds on the other hand have been plentiful, by song if not always by sight. I awoke this morning to a cascade of trills, chirps, and quavers. An olive-sided flycatcher whistled its quick, distinctive three note, “quick three beers” song. The upward trills of Swainson thrushes played harmony against the upward flute of hermit thrushes. Occasionally the single, quivery through-note of the varied thrush cut through the mix. An underlying chorus of chickadees, nuthatches, yellow warblers accompanied the thrushes along with the staccato drum line of flickers. Other birds joined the chorus but I could not distinguish them in my bleary, half-aware early-dawn haze.

The first night here we stayed on the south end of Dorothy Lake. The site, clearly used if not actually sanctioned, lay right at water level We looked out onto a wide island and over dinner, we discovered an osprey nest on top of one of the tall dead trees there. Though the binoculars we watched a single white osprey head poke up above the level of the nest. Just at dusk the mate flew in and perched nearby. In the morning we saw one of the birds bring in a fish and suspect there are fluffy, downy chicks to be fed.


Tonight we are camped on a narrow stretch of land between Bear and Deer Lakes, just on the other side of the ridge from Dorothy Lake . We're almost directly west of where we were last night. At dinner, an osprey flew overhead, no doubt searching for fish in either of these peaceful waters. We also hoped to break out the fishing rod, but saw no sign of fish at either Bear or Deer Lake. Also, the brush is so thick around the lake it's difficult to find a good spot to fish from...especially for those of us who tend to get flies caught and lost in bushes. We're really looking forward to fishing our way throughout the PNT however, and hope to have better luck when we get to Glacier.

Despite the lack of obvious fish, there are plenty of cool aquatic insects to keep us entertained. Dale and I spent some time wading around in the shallow waters of Bear Lake this afternoon. Thousands of whirlygig beetles scattered ahead of our steps. They are about the size of a pumpkin seed and are shiny and twirly and really fun to watch. We also found water skippers, caddisfly larvae and some kind of gooey, gelatinous material (see “What is This?”). These alpine lakes have very little if any vegetation in them either, and no algae which, along with the presence of caddisfly larvae suggest pretty pristine, clean waters. Certainly, the water we are filtering tastes delicious. I love the fresh, non-chlorinated waters of the mountains!


Caddisfly Larvae – the animal's head and front legs are to the right sticking out of the protective shell it's built of rocks and pine needles.

As I look up from the computer I realize I've written myself from dusk into full night. The mosquitoes have not quit their nibbling. Tomorrow we have about a five-mile hike out to the car. It seems such a measly number compared to the miles we'll need to put on during the PNT. We'll use different muscles going downhill with lots of weight. We'll plan to wear our sandals on the stream crossing, and I suspect it'll be a much colder experience walking practically barefoot through snow-fed waters. It should be a good day. By the end I think I'll be eager to get to Glacier and start this adventure!